In UNDERCOVER's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, everything is a little misshapen and distorted.

On a satin dark burgundy suit, wavy panels snake down the arm of the wearer, for instance, while sweatsuits from Champion have mismatched ribbing and wash labels poking out on the exterior. 

Nothing was safe from UNDERCOVER's deconstruction across the 51-look collection. Including Dickies typically hardwearing workwear.

The American label’s signature Eisenhower Jacket, a boxy-fitting zip-up design with World War II military roots, becomes warped thanks to UNDERCOVER's meddling. The straightforward design now has a curved zip, unevenly placed pockets, and twisted triple-stitched construction.

A Dickies workwear staple has gone AWOL.

Dickies’ knee-length shorts, work shirts, and pants also get similar alterations with squiggly stitching and inside tags on the outside. 

Meanwhile, on foot, there’s another new collaboration: Reconstructed and floral-printed Vans sneakers. 

Titled But Beautiful 4.5, this UNDERCOVER collection is the latest in a sequel spanning over twenty years. 

It began with FW04, and was followed by SS05 "But Beautiful 2" (widely considered UNDERCOVER's best collection). Then, to celebrate UNDERCOVER's 35th anniversary, founder Jun Takahashi presented But Beautiful 4 for FW25 womenswear, reviving the patchworked fabrics and punkish raw hems of its predecessors. 

When compared with the other But Beautiful collections, SS26 is a less eccentric affair. You won’t find bird cages as headwear or tree-like forms growing from jackets here. Instead, Takahashi has concentrated on the warped deconstruction in his previous collections, reapplying it to easily wearable, everyday menswear staples. 

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