Entering someone’s home for the first time without a gift is usually a social faux pas. But as guests walked into Givenchy’s intimate Parisian showroom this season for the first publicly released menswear collection under the creative direction of Sarah Burton, there was no need to bring anything beyond curiosity. Here, the gift was what was inside. 

A triptych of rooms, each featuring a different facet of the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, was presented alongside works by the artist Rachel Whiteread. The effect was “a house within a house,” per the press release, designed “to feel very personal and intimate.”

Though the display of white cotton shirts with subtle logo embroidery on the sleeves and some great double-breasted tailored jackets was a draw, it was a room full of almost bombastically bright leather tracksuits. These were presented in highlighter-sharp hues of yellow, pink, blue, green, and red, matching Whiteread’s colorful works — inevitably infusing the domestic setting with energy and putting the usually casual athleisure set on a pedestal as a show-stopping wardrobe staple in its own right. 

Call it the Marty Supreme room, if you will, given that Timothée Chalamet wore these tracksuits throughout last year’s press cycle for his ping-pong film. Up close, the sets were even more technically impressive, with the buttery soft leather balanced against an almost casually simple, softly rounded skate shoe. 

Burton has always been renowned for her masterful tailoring, perfected over decades at Alexander McQueen. But with this palate-cleansing presentation, built on deconstructing the house’s luxury codes and rebuilding them with a touch of modernity, she’s proven that with the right vision, even the humble tracksuit can be transformed into a precious luxury item, fit for everyone from casual shoppers to the world’s biggest movie stars. 

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