On day three of Milan Fashion Week, Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno will present his third collection as the house's creative director from inside the famed Fonderia Carlo Macchi.

De Sarno, who joined Gucci midway through 2023, ushered in a new era of pragmatism during his menswear show earlier this year, which saw rigid suiting and chunky knitwear replace the maximalist approach left by his predecessor Alessandro Michele.

De Sarno's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, though, felt like a change in direction for Gucci.

It was chic. Really chic. With peacoats and boxy jackets paired with teenie shorts and chunky cardigans worn by super sleek (almost wet-looking) models.

As expected, accessories played a major role in the show too. The classic Jackie bag made its obligatory appearance in new tangy colors, as did a pair of platformed Gucci horsebit loafers and some unfathomably-wide wader boots. Alternative? Yes, but it worked.

During his Milanese debut, De Sarno brought back a variety of house classics like miniskirts and loafers, in what has since proven. tobe the start of a new and rejuvenated era for Gucci. Clothes were minimalist and subtle — a far cry from that of Gucci’s Michele.

For SS24, though, while De Sarno's clothes and styling remained objectively different and a major step up from that of Michele’s Gucci, this season felt more complete. It felt opulent and sleek. And above all, it felt super damn chic.