Pleated Sweats Are A Promise, Not A Threat
Welcome to Shopper: Highsnobiety's bulletin on what’s taking up headspace from the marketplace. Below is an edit of February 23's newsletter, in which we find that business has never read quite this casual. Subscribe here, or head to the Shopping tab for more recs.
Flexible Hours, Flexible Waistbands
The late Karl Lagerfeld famously declared that wearing sweatpants was a “sign of defeat” — an admission to having lost control over one's life. Inevitably, Chanel would later toy with athleisure under his stewardship, as would every other big name in the wake of streetwear's industry takeover. And yet, the latest luxury-to-lounge developments seem to embody a distinct, dare I say rizzier nature that I think would have amused the sharp-tongued designer more than it would have disgusted him.
After all, sweatpants now come pleated. Wool trousers are no longer buttoned into but fastened by drawstrings. Meanwhile the preppy venture capitalists’ favorite, previously slim-fitted quarter-zip is turning frumpier and comfier by the minute, more home-office hoodie than Hamptons. Which is all to say: In 2026, tailoring is increasingly built like loungewear, and loungewear is increasingly cut like tailoring.
This trend — let's call it soft power dressing — is inconspicuous at first glance. What I'm noticing supersedes expensive logo-stitched trackies, or the general, generational shift away from formal to casual. Nor is this trend limited to consumers guerilla-repurposing TEKLA or Schostal pajama halves or Charvet-like (house) slippers for regular ‘fits.
The aforementioned examples are about claiming ownership of an existing thing and how it's used: A brand borrows a banal product template and makes a high-end version of it, or shoppers buy a premium-priced item only to ascribe it a wholly different-than-envisioned purpose. A switch in context, perception, and other immaterial components is as important, if not more important, than the sheer appearance of the product.
This new wave of loungewear (much of which isn't even meant for lounging), however, is a deliberate and distinguished attempt at morphing working hours with off-duty aesthetics, unironically. It's not about how men used to wear Armani to the office and now they wear Vuori, or about picking one of those sides. It's a proper fusion — a marriage. And whether you give it your blessing or not, this development stands as one of the very rare contributions to contemporary fashion that actually feels novel and original, rather than a regurgitation of what's been done before, trend-cycle after trend-cycle.
That is, soft power dressing is not to be confused with the various iterations of Lululemon for the even-richer; instead, this current mutation of athleisure is as much a matter of soft, sporty sets as it is of separate, conventionally-at-odds designs put together. Dries Van Noten, for instance, went full business up top and slumber party down below, pairing colorful ties, deep Vs, and double-breasted jackets with ribbed-knit, elastic-cuffed bottoms. Over at Hermès, Veronique Nichanian's last collection for its men's line featured a cruelly cozy-looking ensemble of pinstriped, fuzzy wool that neatly blended in with the severe suits and high-collared leathers also shown. And Calvin Klein sent out a teasing trench-covered onesie along with a bathrobe-resembling wrap-coat and called it a day. Or night, rather.
But there's a middle ground, too: For an onslaught of IYKYK Japanese labels à la A. PRESSE, Ssstein, and FreshService, soft power dressing manifests in tailored, oversized hybrids. Think big boxy blazers atop baggy waistband slacks, shirts tucked in nonchalantly, loafers on-foot — codes plucked from conservative menswear, dusted and repackaged, certain to appeal to a pandemic-spurred preoccupation with versatile, couch-to-conference-room styles.
Watch soft power dressing play out in action in something as perverse as Jacob Elordi's Arc'teryx, cascading sweats, and Saint Laurent scrunchy slide-ins combo. It’s a cap-crowned Gen-Z uniform if I've ever seen one, not only starring a draped pair of cotton-jersey joggers, but a clashing dress shoe to round out this timely, perfectly unsynced get-up.
We’re still in the early stages of this trend, but the creative potential of such lounge-ish-wear has the makings of slow-burn, long-term style infiltration as it moves closer into focus. Whatever harsh words he had for this category of clothes once intended strictly for relaxing in, not even Karl, I'd argue, would've slept on these. Maybe in them, though.
Open Tabs
From quasi-pillow talk to pillowy walks, you won't believe who made these gorgeously graphic-printed runners. If you're dreaming of a type of patented, cushioned sole, you might be On the money. While you're over there, that same Swiss company also sells the so-called Track Bag which has become a favorite spacious everyday tote, ideal for gym gear, a laptop, and other essentials.
Agreed, JW Anderson. This is how you logo!
But who needs logos anyway, if your textile manipulation is just as recognizable, even when applied to something as unassuming as a henley? So one imagines Issey Miyake concluding quite definitively.
Currently also hooked on COOR from South Korea's washed-out bomber — literally. And on its curved chinos, too.
Prada's woolen outerwear, the chevron coat and theme-fittingly track-y blouson especially, are just as alluring, but their price tags nearly enforced the closing of this particular open tab.
Thankfully, COS offers an equally timeless garment, for far budget-friendlier a cost.
The power of Sophie Buhai jewelry's understated elegance cannot be overstated, with the men's Bagel ring duo and
Highsnobiety has affiliate marketing partnerships, which means we may receive a commission from your purchase.
