Simone Rocha is one of the pre-eminent womenswear designers of our age, a master of bows and organza and sparkle and all the other things that she calls "hardcore femininity." So, how would her famously feminine world translate to her first-ever menswear runway show, debuting at Pitti Uomo on June 18?

Quite naturally, actually.

Now, to be clear, Rocha has been designing menswear collections for years. It's just that the Spring/Summer 2027 catwalk provided the Irish designer her first opportunity to date for a presentation consisting entirely of men's looks.

Not that conventional norms surrounding gender matter much to Rocha.

"I design those [looks] with humans in mind," she said after the show. It's all about "putting emotion into clothing," regardless of the wearer's identity. Though she acknowledges that this was her vision of "a masculine wardrobe," she wasn't designing for men but for "characters."

Here is the dandy, elegant in his broderie anglaise shorts and ballet slippers. Here is the working man, clad in necktie, collared (and beaded) shirt, and a water-repellent track jacket with "turbo rosette" pockets. Here is the athlete, suited in a silk-blend jersey with silk organza feather boa to match.

The SS27 collection's press release notes that "codified nods to [Rocha's] world are reanimated, recontextualized and reconsidered for the male," hinting at the stylistic crossovers between her womenswear and menswear. But the mutability became terrifically apparent upon merely glimpsing the range.

Rather than crudely addressing convention, Rocha simply does her own thing. Frills and flounce for everyone!

More specifically, Rocha reinterprets ordinary garments as extraordinary separates, reconfiguring classic staples as exquisite everyday items. These embellished blazers, bags, slacks, shirts, and shorts may be baroquely detailed but their forms are ageless. Anyone could wear these items anywhere, assuming they have the swag necessary to be a true character.

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