A First Look at the Grand Return of a Century-Old “Watch Couturier”
Universal Genève isn’t wasting any time. The Swiss watchmaker was founded in 1894 but has spent almost three decades out the game, a quartz crisis-fueled sabbatical that has meant it’s best known today for being prized by vintage collectors.
Now, it's returning with a vengeance.
At Watches & Wonders, the biggest annual event in horology, Universal Genève relaunched with an expansive offering: 36 new watches split between five models fitted with three new movements. (For context, established watchmakers like Rolex or Patek Philippe typically present one new movement every few years, while Universal Genève’s trio of movements debuted within three years.)
Highsnobiety’s eyes and ears on the ground at Watches & Wonders, Scarlett Baker, got an IRL look at all the company’s new creations and even tried on some of the watches.
“This comeback isn’t just about heritage,” she notes from the Swiss watch convention. “It’s about bringing that same style-driven mindset back into the conversation — where watches aren’t only precise, but actually feel culturally considered.”
That style-driven approach inspired Universal Genève’s nickname, “Le Couturier de la Montre,” which translates to the “watch couturier.” And for this 2026 relaunch, the company is really leaning into that title.
Universal Genève’s wide array of new watches occupies four categories, mimicking how a fashion house operates.
The Prêt-à-Porter line recreates the house’s icons, like the Polerouter, designed with a distinct crosshair dial by the "Picasso of watchmaking," Gérald Genta (who also designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus) at just 23 years old. But there are additional Polerouters in the “Capsule Collection” which focuses on seasonal limited-edition timepieces.
Universal Genève’s “Signature” line will also offer exclusive one-offs, but instead focus on faithfully remaking select pieces from the Maison’s archives. The final line, Couture, meanwhile, is where Universal Genève lets loose.
Huge sapphires, scattered emeralds, and dials made from rare colorful opals define the splashy one-off creations in the couture line.
The watchmaker's new owner, Partners Group, the parent company of Breitling, has been clear that it wants Universal Genève to occupy the ultra-luxury segment, as these bespoke diamond-covered couture watches make clear.
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