Brand: Wacko Maria

Season: Fall/Winter 2021

Buy: SSENSE, Browns, Bodega Goodhood, Haven, Slam Jam

Editor's Notes: Wacko Maria's irony-free appreciation of Western pop culture is as straightforward as its utilitarian apparel. From Pulp Fiction and High Times, these aren't exactly art-house references — not that the Japanese brand cares.

Founders Keiji Ishizuka and Atsuhiko Mori know what they like. Familiar archetypes crop up throughout much of Wacko Maria's output, like the imagined "gangster" leanings of FW21. Spiderwebs, animal print, and Tim Lehi's edgy illustrations all speak to this tough, masculine image. It's no surprise that Wacko Maria's cultural references are dated, given the outdated biker, skater, smoker inspirations, but that doesn't mean there's nothing to like about Wacko Maria's mohair cardigans and printed camp collar shirts.

That also isn't to say that Wacko Maria's hard-drinkin'-cool-guy image is predicated exclusively on lunkheaded bro-dude culture, of course. FW21 includes several homages to Bill Evans' Portrait in Jazz and it's also packed with plenty of faux fur, softening the edge a bit.

There are also homages to Superbad, Bob Dylan, and — once again — Silence of the Lambs: Hannibal, to be specific. These are your typical Wacko Maria nods and they're exactly what they say on the tin. A graphic from this movie here, a poster there — you get the picture.

These are equally serviceable as Wacko Maria's seasonal outerwear, which takes the shape Nanga ski jackets, truckers, coaches, hoodies, and the like. Don't fix what ain't broke, Wacko Maria says. It may not be especially exciting, but it gets the job done.