Graphpaper Is Making the Case for Hiking in Suits
In a perfect world, in the foothills of some remote mountainous region, a geography teacher would be leading a group of largely apathetic students on a tour of the region’s biodiversity while fully dripped out in Graphpaper FW26.
Specifically, they’d be wearing one of the lookbook’s most quietly eccentric, Wes Anderson-ready ensembles: a grey turtleneck layered under a business-friendly suit and tie, and then topped with what seem to be two separate backpacks: One under the brand’s “Techno Wool Twill Open Collar” jacket and another over top. They’d have on the same oversized slacks, paired with reproduction Russian military boots and a fun little bucket hat. They would, in this combination of clothes, be glorious.
Graphpaper’s “FIELDWORK” collection fits the fantasy, built on creative director Takayuki Minami’s six-month research dive into workwear and military clothing. The clothes here have been designed “as tools for research, movement, and documentation,” per the collection notes, and are made up of functional pieces elevated by really luxe fabrics.
There are shirts woven with broadcloth Spanish SIDOGRAS cotton, prized for its durability, a flight jacket filled with lightweight, moisture-wicking 3M Thinsulate padding, and coats and thermo jackets crafted from high-density PERTEX QUANTUM AIR nylon, a material made to balance wind resistance and temperature regulation to avoid overheating — each speciality fabric adding a subtle, techy tweak to seemingly standard winter staples.
Throughout the lookbook, the best fits are the ones that feel slightly off-kilter. There’s a suit and tie in matching brown and white striping, ensconced within a boxy shawl-collar coat with an almost cartoonish shape, and an Australian merino wool sweater, inspired by military command knits, paired with a sheep leather neck warmer and almost literally tied together by suspenders and a ultrasoft fleece liner jacket with flat seam construction for a more streamlined fit — not worn, but rather left hanging off the model’s back by its inner straps.
Graphpaper’s distinctly roomy silhouettes and sharp tailoring are on full display, but this collection feels especially attuned to its actual customers' needs. The clothes are practical, yes, but they don’t look like you’ve slapped an Arc'teryx jacket over a dress shirt. In a sea of same-same, workwear-inspired luxury clothing, it’s nice to see Minami bring a bit of outlandishness to Graphpaper’s lookbook.
Every look feels more than capable of handling a full day of running around a city, which makes sense, given who designed them. Minami isn’t just the brains behind Graphpaper; he also runs a second label, FreshService, is the CEO of Alpha PR, which reps some of the city’s biggest brands, and has a beautiful ceramics collection that was a highlight of Paris Fashion Week this season. He just might be the busiest man in Tokyo.
It’s this proven track record as both a great clothing maker and tastemaker that translates through to the collection. We’re far past the peak of “Gorpcore,” and outerwear that looks like outerwear just feels tired. That’s why Graphpaper hits: It’s an evolutionary next step, delivering utility-inspired luxury clothing that balances elevation with an eccentric edge.
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