Suits Are Back — But Only If You Have Swag
Fellas, it's time to get dressed. And I'm not talking about pulling on the same ol' vintage tee and work pants but suiting up in honest-to-god suits. Tailoring is once again the modern mode of dress.
The thing is, the suit of tomorrow ain't merely biz-cas. Yes, it's time to really start dressin'. It's time for suits with rizz. Forget clothes making the man — it's the man making the clothes.
As demonstrated across so many of the best Spring/Summer 2027 presentations at Paris Fashion Week Men's over the past few days, suits are back. But not as you remember them, unless you were around in the era of zoot suits and Oxford bags.
The new suit wears you. It is a statement, of a sort, and it demands that its wearer have the courage to not only wear it but wear it down to something approaching familiarity, like breaking in a bucking bronco. It makes demands. It is not quiet. It is not subtle.
That's just fine by me, frankly. Society has evolved beyond the need for "quiet luxury" — if you want to dress plainly and forgettably, there are a million elevated basics brands that'd love to have you. But next season's suits are mercifully bold.
Dare to dress. That's what these new suits say. Whether it's Saint Laurent's saucy blazers or Soshiotsuki's obscenely cool mafia-sized tailoring or Dries Van Noten's gorgeous sunrise-inspired sets, the best suits do not shrink from attention. As such, their wearer must not, either. A certain level of swag is essential.
So much the better, I say. Enough wallflower style! Enough blending in!
These wild suits may be powerful but they are not tacky. Sure, some are a little out-there but they also aren't so statement that they couldn't be worn with some regularity. Perhaps Willy Chavarria's billboard-shouldered blazers aren't an all-season affair but, then again, why not? And certainly, the splashy shirts 'n thick ties 'n slick slacks that accompanied them across the designer's latest catwalk do not demand a jacket to make their mark.
About time that typically milquetoast tailoring be refuted en masse. Suits have long been a safe space for snooze-worthy style. It's the wardrobe of the wealthy and tasteless. It's so easy to get wrong (i.e. boring). Whereas a loudly proud blazer-and-trouser set is so wrong that it's right. You must only commit.
Not that your statement suit need be that wild, per se.
Top-tier tailoring — and look, I know these clothes aren't any more tailored than any other off-the-rack item — is defined both by silhouette and sentiment. The jacket must be full, the trousers no less. Otherwise, though, let your imagination run wild.
Commit to color, any color, or tinker with tasteful texture. Notice how brilliant young label ssstein anchors its fancy suits in tropes like shirt, collar, trews but then skews the hue or textile or even core components — sure, a suit can include a three-quarter-zip track jacket! Those creased slacks might be orphaned from the matching jacket, but what of it? Even Ralph is having a little fun with it, pre-patching its chino suits to reiterate workwear bonafides.
All that matters in modern suiting is that you're having fun with it. The second you backslide into staid tropes of "proper" fit or neutral tones, you also slip back into a sea of anonymous outfits. Your suit ought to be as singular as you, even if only subtly so. Yes, subtly. But noticeably.
I mean, you don't have to be A$AP Rocky to wear this stuff — though that'd certainly help.
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