There aren’t many brands left that operate like Lea Boberg. This fledgling imprint is part of a small but stylish cohort reassessing the techniques honed by Savile Row’s finest to produce a more contemporary version of bespoke suiting. Boberg subverts the expectations of a clean-cut suit, with intentionally roomy blazers that offer more ease of movement and frayed raw-edged lapels that get more extreme with wear, adding an avant twist to classic formalwear.

Normally, this experimental tailoring is custom-built for the customer. But if you can’t make it to the brand’s London atelier for a made-to-measure fitting, Lea Boberg’s ready-to-wear offering includes voluminous relaxed-fitting blazers and shirts with fun details like a folded-over double collar. The only problem is finding the stuff. The only two stockists outside of Asia are New York’s elusive Ven.Space and the most important store in menswear, Neighbour.

Fortunately, this specialty suitmaker is making moves to spread the love. 

Leo Boberg is taking leftover materials from previous seasons, all produced locally in Britain or by Japan’s famously advanced weavers, to create what the brand calls “a quiet edition of stable styles.”

These are the Leo Boberg staples, made in only a handful of sizes and only available from Boberg’s website. 

The new range is titled “Issue” and the first collection is, fittingly, Issue 01. Boberg’s signature RPL blazer, a clever and more casual approach to a double-breasted blazer featuring unusually close-together buttons, appears in three fabrics. This is a Boberg mainstay introduced in the brand’s first season, but there’s also the option of the single-breasted RNL blazer, which is equally oversized with the same handcrafted raw edges.

They’re offered alongside a concise capsule that creates a complete Boberg wardrobe: Slouchy pants to match, wide shirts with a glorious drape, and ties produced from scraps of deadstock wool. Basically, all the ingredients you need for a deliciously spicy suit. You won’t get loose threads and equally loose silhouettes like Bobergs on Savile Row.

“Savile Row is for a very particular customer. My customers are from every walk of life,” Boberg previously told Highsnobiety. “My customers talk about the void in between the body and the garment, which allows movement in busy everyday life.”

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